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Ornaments of Hindus |
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Ornaments are widely regarded particularly in the rural parts, more as
means for the safe-keeping of money than for decoration or aids to beauty.
People do not like to spend much on the goldsmith's labour or skill which
fetches no value on the reconversion of the ornaments into cash. As a
result we find that except for the patronage of a few princes of old or
rich persons ornaments are but specimens of clumsy form and workmanship.
Gold ornaments are simply hammered or punched into shape or rudely
engraved and are practically never cast or moulded. They are often made
hollow from thin plate or leaf, the interior being filled with lac. So
also is the case with silver which is also rarely cast. Ornaments differ in type as used by men and women and by boys and
girls. They are worn on the head, in the ears, in the nose, on the neck,
across the shoulders, on the arms, wrists and fingers, round the waist, on
the legs and on the toes. They differ according to the caste and community
and also as used by males, females, boys and girls. With Hindus gold is very sacred metal; and gold ornaments must not on
this account be worn below the waist, as to do so would be considered an
indignity to the holy material. Brahman, and Maratha woman
will not have ornaments for the head and arms of any baser metal than
gold. Other castes should, if they can afford it, wear only gold on the
head. Gold and silver in ornaments is also considered to have a protective
magical effect, like that attribute to charms and amulets. In the making
of ornaments the recent tendency is to substitute gold, silver and
precious stones by alloys, culture peals and synthetic stones. Men now rarely use any ornaments. However, a savakar may display
a bhikbali, a gold ring set with pearls and pendantemerald, hanging
by the upper lone of his ear. He may also use gold salakadis or a poci
on the wrist, and a goph or chainwork, with a locket round the
neck. If fairly off, a baniya's everyday ornaments may be a silver
girdle and a gold armlet worn above the elbow, a pearl ear-ring, a gold or
pearl necklace, and finger rings. Well-to-do cultivators have gold ring in
the ear, kadas of solid silver on the wrists, or a dandkade of
silver wornabove the elbow. A silver chain work girdle known as kargota
is used round the waist be many. Fashions in the ornaments of ladies have considerably changed during
the last fifty years, the general tendency being to avoid gold ornaments
of heavy weight. Head ornaments of any kind as used by ladies are not much in
evidence. However, some hair ornaments such as mud, agraphul
ketki-kevada, veni, rakhadi, candra-surya, nag-gonde, and gonde
phule all made of gold are still to be found in old rich families. Birdi-bijora
and bhang-tila, a decorative ornament for the whole head is to
be found among Rajputs and Marvadis. Flower-shaped ornaments such as gulabace-phul,
caphe-kali, etc., as braid-ornaments are current. Ear ornaments such as caukadi kudi preferably of pearls and
of precious stones are in vogue, bugadya, balya, kap are in the use
of old women. Ear-rings of various types are now getting into fashion. Nose ornaments: nose-rings such as nath and besar as
cremonial ornaments worn by married ladies in the left nostril are
current. Nath of the rich is studded with pearls and gems, that of
the poor is made of gold; besar is smaller in size. Other types of
nose-rings are murni, mugval, phuli, kanta, camki and bulak. Neckless such as mangalsutras of various types, the black
beads being stringed together by different pattern of gold symbolically by
married ladies are now-a-days worn by them as an ornament. Other types of
necklaces in current use are; bakulihara, bormal, candrahar,
capalahar,ekdani, joudhalipora, kolhapuri-saj, mohanmal, putalyaci-mail,
and pohe-har; sari, thusi, vajratik are getting rare; petya, pota,
laphpha, tanmani, and pende are made of pearls and to be found
current among the rich. Hand ornaments such as kankane (bangles) of patterns known
as bilor, diamond, double-diamond, hodighat, parica-pailu, tin-pailu and
calcutta pattern, Delhi pattern and Madras pattern are current : Patlya
(wristless) known as jalicya, minyacya, pailucya, punacya, and todicya
all made of gold are current. Costlier bangles studded with pearls,
diamonds and precious stones are in the use of rich. Armlets such as bajubands or vakis of the types known as hatricya,
modavakya, rudragath, tulabandi made of gold or silver are still in
wear. Foot or leg ornaments areusually made of silver and as worn
by lower classes thy are tode, tordya, sakhalya and vale. Masolya,
jodvi, phirvi, salle, are silver toe rings and are used by ladies on
marriage day, and continue to be used by lower classes. Child ornaments such as bindalya, mangatya, kaditode which are wristlets, and goph, hasli, sakhali taiti which are necklaces are made either of gold or silver. Sakhali and sarpoli are used round the waist and ghungur-vale and vale are worn on the ankles. (Copyright © Nagpur Online, March 1999,
2000 Under the U.S. & India Copyright act ). |